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South Coast Sailboats

 

 

Thank you SalterSail, good information if you want to go with the ports you have.

The window rubber can be found at a good auto glass replacement shop. It may have to be ordered but is still available. It is used in big truck windows. The glass can be cut too. Mine was shrunk up so bad I took it all out. <Both sides> Place the new rubber around the window with the opening at the bottom<center> wrap a string around the whole thing, set it up to the opening, and pull the string from the inside. The window and rubber will pop right in with a little help from WD-40. Mine looks great and don't leak. With brand new rubber, you can peel it back just a bit from the outside and apply a small amount of white silicone.

 

Thank you Stan (rugscrub), your insight to a painful problem most of us have to deal with. I like the idea of starting over rather than fixing the existing mess.

I have an SC22 (beloved, eternal project). My side ports leaked like the proverbial sieve. The starboard berth was completely rotted and had to be replaced. I gave up trying to do the silicone thing. The frame, gasket and window configuration was in too poor a condition to accomplish a true "fix" that looked half way decent. My solution was to remove the entire mess and start over. It was really pretty simple. I made a template by tracing the opening on a piece of cardboard. After the cardboard was cut to size I then laid it on some Kraft paper and added approximately 1.5" by dragging a child's compass around the edge. This created a new template with suitable overlap for a new one-piece replacement port. Next I took this to a local glass shop and had them cut the new ports out of dark tinted Lexan (Polycarbonate). Even though the originals were Plexiglas, the new ones should be the much stronger Lexan, due to the loss of strength in the cabin sides when the window frame is removed. Holes were drilled (slightly oversized) at approx. 4" intervals around the perimeter. I chose 10-24x1 1/4 Stainless bolts (Ace not Boat U.S.) The holes were drilled in the boat itself by mounting the new port at about four points and drilling using the port itself as a guide. The port was removed and little rubber tabs were placed next to each hole. The purpose of the tabs is to prevent over-tightening of the bolts. I think these are available at most boat yards or marine stores. A nice convenience, but not a necessity. I then applied a silicone caulk around (after masking of course) the opening on the boat. The product I used was a product used for sealing windows in office buildings and was not labeled "marine". It was recommended by a local high-end boatyard. They said it lasts forever and they have never had to re-do one. I have been 100% satisfied. The cost was about $12 per tube. By the way. If you use the dark Lexan, I would suggest using black sealer. It is much more forgiving than the white stuff. Hope this info is helpful. Best regards, Stan (sv "Selah" Green Cove Springs, Fl)

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